Tsaagan Tsar with Selenge

I just returned from visiting with my friend Selenge and her family for Tsaagan Tsar which is the Mongolian equivalent of the Chinese New Years. Based on a lunar calendar, Tsaagan Tsar celebrates the coming of the new year and the ending of winter, though somewhat prematurely as the extreme cold weather will last another few months. This was my first invitation to celebrate Tsaagan Tsar with a Mongolian family; I feel like I was able to get a real sense of how a typical Ulaanbaatar resident celebrates.

Selenge and her family live in the North of the city in Bayanzurk, the newest Ger district in UB. We met at a petrol station then drove together back to her house as I would not have been able to find it otherwise. Although Selenge lives in Bayanzurk, her family has a small house that her father and his brothers built about ten years ago; they do not live in a Ger.

After parking outside, we entered the family compound through the gate of the hasha or wooden fence that encircles their home. A large, furry dog barked menacingly but decided not to get up; Selenge says he's really old and can't be bothered anymore. We followed a winding brick path that ended at an entryway to the house; kind of an attached garage housing some stored items. This led to a doorway that opened into a small kitchen.

The kitchen has a micro refrigerator and sink along one wall and a large metal drum filled with water opposite that Selenge and her younger sister hand-carry in plastic containers from the local water spigot, a six-minute fast walk away. Another stretch of wall contains a table on which is stacked an electric tea kettle and a steamer/boiler plate; this is where the buuz or small mutton-filled dumplings are cooked in mutton fat for 30 minutes.

Selenge, her mom and sister made 700 buuz last weekend in preparation for visiting families and friends, storing them outside in the freezing cold- nature's refrigeration. Tradition says that each person that visits must consume three buuz and three shots of vodka; this is after greeting your hosts ceremonially (younger people put both hands under elder's elbows), taking some snuff, drinking milk tea and eating a mound of boiled meat (usually mutton and beef) and assorted potato and julienne carrot-cabbage salads. I did not sniff the snuff; I admired the bottle and took a little whif...it smell kinda good but I was not at all tempted.

Needless to say, I did not follow tradition. I had two buuz and merely whet my lips with the vodka. I drank most of my milk tea which is a combination of boiled water with a small portion of black tea, lots of fresh milk and salt. The tea is drank out of bowls that are held between two hands; it is not considered rude to sip loudly. The first food that was eaten was boiled rice cooked with raisins and butter, quite tasty. Selenge put a scoop of the mixture into the palm of my hand and said to just eat it that way. I was then given a small plate that I scooped salads onto, and they were all really terrific.

The cornerstone of any Mongolian celebration and life in general, is meat. There is a Mongolian saying that goes something like this, "a meal without meat is not a meal." I witnessed lots of frozen, skinned sheep carcasses being loaded into the trunk of cars last weekend when I did my shopping at Mercury. The meat for Tsaagan Tsar is boiled on the bones and displayed on a platter housed on a low table in the living room, surrounded by the salads, a plate of fresh fruit and another tray that has stacks of the biggest cookies (topped with yogurt cheese and candies) that you've ever seen. The cookie plate is eaten a little bit everyday, shared with some family members then dismantled. Selenge said that by the end of Tsaagan Tsar, she can't hardly stand to eat anymore.

Selenge's father sliced off a generous portion of meat with plenty of fat, the creme de la creme of Mongolian culinary delicacy. I asked Selenge if it would be rude not to eat the fat, she said don't worry about it, it's not expected that foreigners covet the fat. I hit the jackpot with a slice of beef as I have a hard time with mutton, although I would have eaten whatever I was given. By the way, Selenge's parents don't speak any English so I was able to ask for quick directions without showing my ignorance or being too rude.

I ate very lightly the first go-round as I knew I would be expected to eat another plate. Eating at friend's houses during Ramadan in Egypt taught me the trick of pacing myself. Eventually, the niece and her family, of Selenge's mom showed up. Their three year old could say, "How are you? I am fine" in English and did so repeatedly. She was so incredibly cute, it wouldn't have mattered what she said...what a doll.

I eventually retired into my comfort zone, the kitchen so I could watch Selenge and her sister deal with replenishing plates, make tea and juggle seven guests (and the four of them) in a house that is about 450 sq ft. on a good day. I excused myself after the customary two hours so they could visit more easily with their guests and I could take a nap. Selenge drove with me back to the main road to make sure I was headed in the right direction.

Tomorrow, I will have her over to our place for turkey tacos- I cooked our Thanksgiving turkey that's been patiently waiting in the freezer- Greg was traveling in La Paz at Thanksgiving so I hadn't bothered. Selenge has mentioned how much she loves turkey since she had it for the first time last year at an American friend's house.