How much is that fish in the window?

The last time Greg was in KK he went to a fish market for dinner and wanted to take me back to experience the wonder of the freshest of fresh seafood. We wandered downtown via taxi with Tuul and Betsy in tow, who had just flown in from UB for the ERACOS conference and were ravenous after their long travel.

We stepped out of the taxi into the pouring rain, made a quick dash across the street and entered the fish market area. Row upon row of fish tanks were lined up against the outer walls of a large, open seating area probably about double the size of a large school gym. There were numerous fish mongers and waiters lying in wait for customers as they walked through the door. We happened to walk into the building through an entrance located next to the most extensive selection of fish and seafood.

We were quickly approached by employees who who took us to their tanks and helped decipher our choices.

I swept the wide selection of the still swimming version of our soon-to-be-dinner with a quick glance then got down to business. I felt no remorse as Greg pointed to a tank full of Tiger Prawns asking if I'd like one. "Yes please!" was my emphatic response. Jumbo does not come close to describing the monstrosity of the prawns set before me. They were lovingly housed in individual plastic bottles, I suppose so they couldn't fraternize with each other and ruin their beautiful retail potential. Never in my life had I seen prawns the size of lobsters- there was a short debate as to whether one or two each would be appropriate; we decided one each would suffice. Betsy suggested scallops, and I said "Yes!" Greg suggested crabs and I said, "my God, yes!" The server suggested fresh, steamed greens and I nearly fainted from the joy of it all.

Still swimming prawns, shortly before their Earthly liberation

We retired to a large, oval table. Runners brought a cold Stella beer for each of us and an assortment of peanuts, pickled mango and our freshly steamed greens. Silver basins filled with water and a couple spices bobbing on top were added to the mix, ostensibly to wash our hands following what was sure to be a messy feast.

Pickled mango, peanuts, Stella Beer and various condiments

Soon, steaming plates began arriving in quick succession, each filled to capacity with tender morsels of shell, spice and flesh. While the prawns were not peeled, I made quick work of shucking it's outer carapace. Last year, while at ERACOS in Manila, Greg tormented me with tales of three-bite prawns. Greg muttered that those paled in comparison to the prawns set before us; it was truly as big or bigger than any lobster tail I've eaten in the past. Hmmm..... the bar has been reset to a new standard.

I couldn't believe this was only ONE prawn

The crabs and scallops were equally amazing, cooked to perfection and dripping with Malay spices. I pushed all conventions of polite table manners aside as I cracked shells and sucked the juicy morsels with wide abandon.

Seriously good eats!

Dessert was a sensible plate of fresh papaya and watermelon. Gorged, I dutifully washed my hands in the silver basin, wiped my face then stumbled into the night for a taxi ride back to the hotel. If I go back home to UB, the landlocked capital of a traditional herding society, without having gained a kilo or two in seafood weight, I will almost be disappointed!

From left: Kim, Greg, Betsy and Tuul